(updated June 2021, original 2014)

In August, 2014, after more than a month in the country, I was nearing the end of my Colombian ARPATUR adventure. In these recent years, I had been promoting the idea of harp tourism, perhaps an affordable 8 -10 day "adventure" tour focused on traditional harp music but also incorporating features of culture, history and sustainable agriculture. After some early trips with companions in 2006, 2007 and 2008, that vision never materialized again.

I returned to Bogota on August 5, after 10 days in Arauca, a historic river town on the Venezelan border, the cradle of arpa llanera that is so prevalent in song and story. Across this entire region, the sheer numbers of harpists and harp students, of all ages, is astonishing.

In Arauca, I enjoyed impromptu music-making every day on the wide porch at Hotel Las Mercedes, as the guest of owners Luis and Milena Rodriguez. At least a dozen local singers and instrumentalists came to the porch on one or more occasions. I also took observed two private music schools, and took instruction from two excellent harpists and teachers, Nelson Acevedo (an informal video setting) and Milkon Garcia (update 2021, here’s a tutorial of Fiesta en Elorza).

While in Arauca, my hosts took me overnight to their farm, where they keep a stable of riding horses as well as cattle. Luis, a veterinarian and former professor, is writing a book on the history of horses since their introduction from Spain almost 600 years ago. More important, perhaps: Luis is a wonderful singer, as demonstrated on the hotel porch and at an evening bonfire sing-along at the farm.

Earlier, in Bogota I had spent three weeks at Academia Llano y Joropo (Facebook here) (website here). Master harpist Hildo Ariel Aguirre Daza established this private music school in 1988. At this school I received an intense introduction into the traditional method, entirely by ear. As I have previously described, students at all skill levels are present, practicing their lessons simultaneously. The teacher moves from one to the next, with short and precise instructions. Cacophonous, but very effective.

My tour (which never materialized) would have had two parts: first, in urban Bogota, a stay with Academia Llano y Joropo; after that, in rural Arauca, field visits and a stay at Hotel Las Mercedes. Accommodations: simple and inexpensive. Music: a mix of regular folks who happen to make music, as well as professionals - harpists, singers, cuatristas, maraqueros. Shopping and various sight-seeing are optional.